Attic with no access insulated

This was an attic with no trap door and no access from inside. We opened the roof from the outside, upgraded the insulation to 300mm blown fibreglass. We then closed the roof and left it watertight. This is a common type of roof in the likes of extension, back kitchens and bay windows
Insulate attic with no access

Tiles are removed and roof is opened

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
blown fibreglass
Insulation upgraded with blown fibreglass
  

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
Insulated roof made watertight
Job is completed by making watertight

New build attic

 This house had a dormer style roof that was ready for conversion at a later date. Until then, the client wanted the main part of the house insulated to a reasonable standard. We insulated the crawl spaces with 300mm blown & rolled fibreglass. We then filled the 9″ joists with blown fibreglass so that the attic could be floored out. This left the attic ready for conversion whilst also retaining the heat downstairs.
attic before insulation

Attic prior to insulation being installed

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
Blown attic fibreglass
Compleded job with 225mm blown fibreglass
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 

Crawl space insulation with ventilation tray

300mm rolled fibreglass with ventilation tray

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Difficult to access area with 300mm blown fibreglass
Difficult to access area with 300mm blown fibreglass
 
 
 

Attic insulation v attic storage: a solution

 

One of the most commonly faced difficulties is how to add insulating material to an attic space when the attic space is required for storage.

The problem is that with regular fiberglass or rockwool, if you simply throw old boxes or Christmas decorations on top of the insulation you will compress it. When the material is squashed down it loses its insulating abilities. When you are standing in the attic, the depth of the void formed between the plasterboard of the ceiling below and the top of the ceiling joists is usually about 100mm (4″). Given that current building regulations require 300mm of insulating fibreglass, it is then impossible to store material in the attic without compromising the effectiveness of the insulation. There are 3 main solutions:

 

1. Raising the joists up with extra “packing joists” to create a 300mm void which can then be filled with fiberglass and  then re-boarded over. This will give a finished u value of 0.16 and will eliminate any thermal bridging

2. Using a solid insulating board (such as xtratherm or kingspan) cut to fit in the void that exists between the joists without raising the level of the loft floor. This method still allows for heat loss through the timber as the material is only between the joists.  

3. Using a solid insulating board to fit over the existing joists (such as xtratherm or kingspan), thus raising the flooring by a minimal amount but eliminating cold bridging. Fiberglass is used to fill in between the ceiling joists. The required U value of 0.16 is easily achievable with 80mm board and 100mm fibreglass

4. Insulating between the roof rafters with either insulating board, spray on insulation products or insulation blanket products.

This article focuses on the first three potential methods, and looks at their advantages & disadvantages.

Before reading the article, please note that there are a number of dangers associated with carrying out work in your loft and great care must be exercised. Follow all safety instructions available from the suppliers of the materials you decide to use and if you have any doubts about your capability to carry out insulation work in your loft safely please consult a qualified builder or insulation contractor.

RAISING THE JOISTS

Advantages

  • If you run the additional “packing joists” across the existing joists at 90 degrees, you are able to run wool insulation over the top of the original ceiling joists, which reduces potential “thermal bridging”.
  • The materials are less expensive than the other options below.
  • You retain most of your loft storage area.

Disadvantages

  • It’s a big DIY challenge
  • The wood required for the “packing joists” may be heavy and difficult to get  into the attic
  • You will lose around 150mm (6”) in height in the attic  because of the floor being raised

Using solid Insulating board between joists

 Advantages

  •  Your floor stays the same height and therefore no attic height is lost.
  • You retain your loft storage space
  • There are no heavy timbers to work with

 Disadvantages

  • Its time consuming and fiddly to cut insulation board to fit between existing joists (which are invariably, even within one loft, are different widths apart). The cutting to size of the thermal boards usually needs to be done before they are taken into the loft space as access is usually restricted but it is also important that any dust resulting from the cutting does not contaminate the property’s living space
  • Insulation board can be very costly  and care is needed to cut them safely as the resulting dust acts as an irritant
  • Because you are insulating between the ceiling joists you are (by definition) not insulating over the ceiling joists. This means that where the joists run, your insulation is limited to the thermal properties of the joist timber only and your insulation will be “bridged” by the timber i.e. cold will be able to be transferred through the timber joists.
  • Where a home has been built with traditional 4″ x 2″ timber ceiling joists you are unlikely to get much more than 90mm of insulation board in between the joists (this will vary from property to property). It might be that if there is any old fashioned electrical conduit that needs to be worked around, you get even less than 90mm in.

Using solid insulation over the joists

Advantages

  • Because the solid insulation has a better thermal value than fiberglass, less of it can be used to achieve the same overall u value. Therefore loss of height is kept to a minimum.
  • Ordinary fiberglass can be rolled between the existing joists to cut down on cost & speed up the job
  • As the insulation board has a compressive strength, the flooring can be layed directly on top without the need for additional joists
  • Storage space is maintained
  • Thermal bridging will be eliminated as the joists are covered

Disadvantages

  • There is still some height lost (approx 80mm)
  • The material is expensive
  • The sheets may have to be cut outside of the attic if the trap door is too smal

From a pure insulation, building regulations and “required effort” point of view the best solution is getting a professional contractor in to carry out the required work.

To sum up, if retaining storage space in your loft is important then you can improve your level of insulation but you may have to compromise on the level of insulation you ultimately have and you have to be realistic about the difficulty and complexity of the DIY task involved.

Insulated dry lining on the Vergers house, Kildare town

This project was on an old house with solid walls. There was a serious mould problem throughout the house. Rather than using standard insyulated boards we used metac high density fibreglass. Unlike polyiso insulation, this will  allow the walls to breath. In conjuction with this we used pro clima air tightness membrane to ensure that water vapour could move through the fabric of the external walls 
insulated dry lining
stone facade was cleaned & sealed with drytreats stone sealerbad mould growth behind bedbad mould growth behind bedbad mould growth behind bedWalls & reveals insulatedfully plastered walls with new skirting & extended socketsWalls & reveals insulatedbad mould growth behind bed
insulated dry lining

bad mould growth behind bed

 
 
 
dry lining
studs filled with Isover Metac high density fibreglass
 
 
 
 
insulated walls

Walls & reveals insulated

 
 
pro clima

Pro Clima air tightness membrane was used to ensure breathability while maintaining air tightness

 
 
 
 
 
 

plastered walls

fully plastered walls with new skirting & extended socketsWalls & reveals insulated

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Aereco direct control ventilation in Clane

 

 This client had very bad problems with mould growth in the house. The source of the moisture was mainly from the upstairs shower where there was no ventilation. We decided to take a whole house approach. We installed Aereco DCV system which extracted moist air from the kitchen, utility & bathrooms, through a single extract fan. We then installed humidity sensitive window & wall vents throughout. this will ensure that excess moisture is removed from the dwelling while fresh air is supplied only where required

DCV

MOULD GROWTH BEHIND CABINET

aereco ventilation
V4A central accoustic fan located in attic
Aereco DCV

3 EXTRACT UNITS DUCTED INTO FAN

 

 

Direct control ventilation

EXTRACT UNIT IN BATHROOM

 

VENTILATION

HUMIDITY SENSITIVE WINDOW VENT

VENT

HUMIDITY SENSITIVE WALL VENT

Soundproofing in Carbury Co. Kildare

On this project the client required soundproofing on the internal stud walls upstairs. We used 100mm rockwool flexi batts. The batts are precut and semi rigid so the wont sag or settle in the studwork 
insulated walls
Plant room soundproofed

 

rockwool flexi
100mm rockwool flexi  Plant room soundproofed

soundproof stud

Typical cavity wall drilling patterns

Here are some examples of where holes need to be drilled when installing cavity wall insulation. In general holes are drilled 600mm apart. To ensure a correct fill we follow a strict NSAI certified drilling pattern. Holes are drilled under windows/ vents/ soil pipes/ windows & lintels. 
Cavity wall insulation
Drilling pattern

 

Bonded bead drilling pattern

drilling pattern Holes under windows will fill up 200mmDrilling pattern

 
cavity wall insulation

Drilled holes no more than 600mm apart

 

Isover Air tightness membrane in Straffan

 Air tightness membrane on cieling  air tight membraneair tightness membraneAir tight membrane around ductingIsover system was used to ensure a good airtightness result on this new build. The client was also installing a HRV unit so air tightness was crucial

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